Wall Drop/Crypt

This room I wanted to scare my guests from all sides at the same time. This way know matter which way they were looking, we had the opportunity to deliver one hell of a scare to everyone in the group.

The way the room would work is like this. The group enters a seamingly empty room about 8ft by 10ft, give or take, with nothing but a strobe light blinking at them from the opposite side of the room. As the last person enters, a door closes behind them. They now appear to be trapped in this room with no apparent exit.

Just then the strobe light goes out. Now pitch black in the room, the upper portion of the walls all around the group begin to lower without them being aware. Characters behind all the walls are now able to position themselves by leaning out through the space where the upper walls once were. At the moment the upper walls reach there lowest point, stage lighting turns on reveiling the transformed room with the characters now there to execute one hell of a scare.

One key point: Make sure the strobe light is at the opposite end of the room that they enter from. This strobe light should be pointed right at them. This does two things: 1) It helps to hide the exit door in the shadow created below the light. 2) Most importantly, it acts to blind your guests a bit. This room needs to be totally dark when the walls drop for this to work best. Blinding them a bit just helps assure they dont see anything until the right time.

The Construction

Ive tried to use as many pictures as I could find showing the construction. If I find more I will definately add them.

This room was constructed from 2x2 lumber and 1/8 inch hardboard. There were two systems of walls; the lower stationary walls and the upper dropping wall section. The lower section was fastened to the floor forming a 4ft high knee wall all the way around the room. The upper (dropping) section was built on the floor, around the already built lower section, allowing for about 1 inch or so of play overall. **Be aware that if the walls are not sealed, they tend to warp and bow. If this is being installed in a damp location such as an old basement as mine was, be sure to allow extra space to compinsate for this. You'll be thankfull you did. The upper section had reinforced joints of metal strapping to prevent them from coming apart while hanging in the air.

Installing the Cable System

After the upper (dropping) section was completed and resting freely on the floor around the secured lower (stationary) section, I located where on the upper wall I wanted the cables to be conected (pulling point), and installed steel eyelets to fasten the cable to. I then used a plumb to locate on the ceiling, the exact point over the eyelets of the upper section of wall, to ankor the eyelets that would support the pulleys and then installed them. At this point I had already known that the winch (the pulling force to raise and lower the upper wall section), would be mounted to the floor in a safe space free from any foot traffic. I then located and then installed the eyelets and pulleys overtop of the winch. I was now able to run all the 1/8 inch cable from the upper wall, through both pulleys, and down to the winch. In my application I had 6 seperate points of which the wall was being raised and lowered from; which meant 6 seperate cables from the wall back to the winch.

Now with all the walls built, (I had no false ceiling installed at this point) I was able to make all the adjustments to the cables, to get the walls to raise and lower evenly and freely. Its also a good idea to install turnbuckles to one end of the cable to allow for easy adjustment (a mistake I made the first time I built this room). This is also the point that you will see why having that play between the upper and lower section of wall is. You want it tight enough for the lower wall to act as a guide for the upper, but not so tight that the walls bind when lowering. Otherwise as the walls lower and one section gets stuck and the winch is still letting out cable, you'll have a hell of a mess. TRUST ME!!

Cieling Install

Now that your walls are raising and lowering correctly, you can frame in the ceiling. The first year I built this I utilized the existing ceiling grid and crypt tiles. The second time I framed in my own hardboard ceiling. I think the hardboard looks better. You can hang stuff from it if you wish. I mounted my video cameras to it very easily. Although the ceiling grid allowed you to get back up into the space if you had to. If a cable comes off a pulley you'll want quick access.

Electrical Install

At this point I began the electrical install. I already had planned that I wanted the group to enter with a strobe light blinking from inside the room. When the strobe goes out the upper wall begins to lower. And when the lowering wall reaches the floor, my stage lighting comes on. I set up an electrical system of 24 volt relays and electric timers with a delay time, a run time, and an off time. One timer powered a receptical for the strobe and the other timer powered a receptical for the stage lighting. I installed a whisker tailed limit switch in a position so that as the upper wall was raised, it held the switch on. This switch turns the strobe on, but then as the wall lowers a bit, breaking contact with the switch, the strobe goes out. I then installed a whisker tailed limit switch towards the floor so that when the lowering section of wall reaches the floor, it trips the switch and turns the stage lighting on. The stage lighting was mounted to the ceiling behind each section of dropping wall, out of sight of the patrons. Do to the way I had the strobe light circuit wired, the strobe would only stay off for a certain amount of time. So as the walls were going back up, idealy with the patrons out of the room, there was light for safety reasons.

Rough Framework and Foam

With the walls complete and the lighting working properly, I rough framed in behind the upper section of wall. This created the support structure for the 1/2 inch styrofoam I used to form the arch of the tombs for my crypt. With the 4ft x 8ft sheets of white foam, I used a chaulk line to lay out offsetting rectangles (to look like a block wall). I then used crypt a torch to melt the foam down each line. This gave a weathered effect to the block wall (be creative). I then used black spray paint to darken in those burned in lines and misted lightly over the rest. There are several tutorials out there on using foam to make walls. Do your research. My method worked excellent for me and it didnt cost me much time or $$$.

One Kick-Butt Room

This room was incredible when it comes to scaring. One of the funnest rooms I've ever built. Fun for both the patrons but also the characters as well! The key to this room to be effective is to be able to get it completely dark as the walls are dropping. The strobe light helps to blind the patrons a bit as they enter. So when the walls are dropping, they dont see a damn thing........UNTIL THE LIGHTS COME BACK ON. Then have your cast be as loud and intense as they can. Lean out of the walls as they drop. Get as close to the group as you can before the lights come back on.

I know I have more pictures of the construction phase. When I find them I will get more loaded up. Good luck if you try and build this room. Feel free to get ahold of me with any questions.

Videos

Here are some videos from the first time I built this room back in 2004. Most noticable difference from the first to second time I built this room was the wall you see with the one character was modified to allow space for up to 3 characters.

More Pictures


This shorter wall had the enterance door to the actors left of the tomb. This actor position controlled the raising and lowering of the walls.	The videos show this wall with a small tomb for one character. It was modified the second time build to hold up to 3 actors.

Exit to the room was at the end of the left side wall.	Another view looking at the exit. NOTE: the strobe light above the door. WHY??

Note one of the 6 cables used to raise and lower the walls. Try and keep the cables out of your actors way. Make sure to cover the cable ends with foam or duct tape them so people dont get scratched.	Platforms were built so the characters can be higher than the guests as need be. A plus when your actors are mainly young kids.